Copyright (C) 1994, Luigi Semenzato
I have a difficult relationship with the swell. I want to dominate it, control it, understand it in its smallest detail. Which, of course, is impossible. I know that but I can't help it. When I sail in the swell, my eyes furiously scan the water surface, and my brain integrates and interpolates in its fruitless attempt to predict its shape at tee sub zero, the instant of board contact. I would probably enjoy it more if I could relax and take it as it comes. I do the same thing with life.